• 17
    Feb
    , by Alex

Llegamos al campo base del Nanga Parbat el día 25 de Enero. Desde entonces, siempre a merced de los caprichos meteorológicos, hemos realizado dos rotaciones en la montaña, tras las cuales, además de equipar la ruta hasta los 6.700 metros de altura, hemos depositado material y comida en los diferentes campos establecidos de cara a próximas incursiones.

Podría afirmarse que gran parte del trabajo y lo más técnico está ya listo; no en vano, se trata de la cota más alta jamás alcanzada en el Nanga invernal y por la ruta Kinshofer, lo cual nos llena de satisfacción.

Ahora nos espera una semana completa de mal tiempo que emplearemos para descansar, reflexionar sobre lo escalado hasta ahora y plafinificar los pasos a dar.

Esta es la cronología-resumen del trabajo realizado hasta hoy.
25 JANUARY
Reached base camp (4.300m).
28 JANUARY
First walk towards C1, porting nothing, just making track until the glacier. Three iranian climbers reach base camp.
30 JANUARY
Again towards C1, this time went through the morraine and the glacier up to 4.850. Deposited there 600 metres rope and one tent.
31 JANUARY
Took the material deposited the day before and take it up to 5.050 metres were we stablished C1. Back to base camp for sleeping (4.300m).
4 FEBRUARY
From base camp directly towards C2. Going through very deep snow, fixed 400 metres rope up to 5.450. Back to C1 (5.050m) for sleeping.
5 FEBRUARY
Left C1 looking fordward to reach C2, but just managed to fix up to 5.800 and came back to C1 (5.050m) for sleeping.
6 FEBRUARY
Started from C1, climbed in blue ice 100 metres more than the day before, up to 5.900. Deposited two tents, 1.300 metres rope and food 150 metres below C2. Back to base camp.
First rotation finished.
9 FEBRUARY
Left base camp, reached C1 (5.050m) and spent the night there. Italian climber Daniele Nardi joined our group.
10 FEBRUARY
Started from C1, climbed Kinshofer wall (250m) and, for the first time, reached and stablished C2 at 6.100. Four hours job just for making the platform for fixing the tent. First night in C2.
11 FEBRUARY
Left C2 and fixed 500 metres more rope up to 6.500. Mixed terraine at first, blue ice after. Back to C2 (6.100m), second night above 6.000.
12 FEBRUARY
Again left C2 and thist time reached 6.700 metres alttitude, our C3, the higgest alttitude never reached in this mountain, in winter and in the Kinshofer route. Night in C3.
13 FEBRUARY
Tireness, less aclimatization and hard wind didn´t let us go on. Back to base camp.
Second rotation finished..