• 1
    , by Alex

On Saturday 23rd we went all of us to Camp 1 at 6100 meters. It only took us 5 and a half hours to arrive there. Ignacio, Felix and Josep went to Advanced Base Camp to sleep and the rest of us spent the night at Camp 1.

Our optimism t vanished the following day... Out of 7 climbers only Cheppal and I climbed up to Camp 2 at 6600 meters, just where the House Chimney is. This location seems quite good to us to place the Camp 2, as it is protected from the wind. It was so windy but just in an hour we managed to set up the tent.

We had a maximum commitment. The night arrived, but we couldn´t sleep, as we had to keep the tent standing. The following day, 25 February, we waited for everyone else, as they finally manage to ascend from C1 to C2.

After 5 hours, we were the entire group back together, but the weather was getting worse, with winds of 70 or 80 km per hour. The night was hard. My colleagues Nuri, Chhepal, Walung, Gelsen, Pasang and even Pavel, who have more experience in winter expeditions than me, told me that it was one of their worst nights if not the worst. It has difficult putting down the tent with all that wind. But we need to look on the bright side and this definitely made us stronger. Is always important listening to our body and going back to Base Camp was the right decision to ensure safety. We are happy with what we have done, we are more acclimated and we carried enough material for a summit attempt..