• 1
    Feb
    , by Alex

"After several short weeks in the base camp, the balance so far is very very positive. But it is true that in the last two attempts of Everest was the same, so we have to change things and wait for the luck that didn’t arrive on Everest. We are already close to 7000 meters, with enough rope to equip up to the summit and the resources we need for staying here until the end of March.

So the planning and logistics, so far, quite good, and in terms of work in the mountains, we believe that little more could be improved or accelerated: in just two days we have managed to load and mount a single line to C2. Achieving something like that means striving, sacrificing and above all a lot of teamwork. This team, unfortunately, has been very small, being reduced to nine members today, since Marek and Waldemar are already in Skardu.

We left for advanced base camp with very good weather, but as the day progressed it changed completely, and it turned really windy. We had to spend the night as we could in the advanced base camp. Felix, Ignacio, Pavel, Marek and Waldemar, meanwhile, went back to the base camp.

The head sextet equips up to C1, at 6100 meters. On the road, uncertainty and at the same time a lot of effort, maybe too much.

This is how the Nepalese climbers tell us ....
"We didn’t leave really soon." Two hours before leaving, Alex was already on his feet and we had warmed up the water for breakfast, the zipper on his sleeping bag had broken and he had not been able to sleep because of the cold. The sleeping bags of Pasang and Cheppal were free, since they came from the base camp. Do you know what was his answer when we asked why during the night he did not ask us for a sleeping bag next to him? That he did not want to bother and that as we carry thin sacks, he knows that we get inside two, so he spent the whole night without sleeping and on top of that he prepared the water for us and organized everything outside the store, with so much cold.

We started to climb with a lot of weight, each of us with about 25 kg, and the one who had not slept took one more pack of rope than the others, the one he brought from home, which is worse because it is much heavier, heh, heh. For us the "korean rope", that a 200-meter coil weighs 6kg and those that Alex brings, between 8 to 10 kg the 200 meters. We had little to reach C1, 6100 meters, and doubts arise. But there is always our friend to pull everyone, to reassure us ... he thinks, reasons, and listens, which is the most important thing. We, being Nepalese, know that we are always treated in a derogatory way, but this is not the case with Alex. We arrived at C1. It is very cold and you have to carve the shelves because there is no room. More than two hours itching. Once again, Alex surprises us: he goes to the worst tend, hung to the void, where only two people enter, the most uncomfortable and the less sunny. He carries his canteen with 1 liter of orange tang, which we like a lot, and he makes sure that we all drink, except him. It's amazing, he finds out what we eat and how much we drink each one. Moreover, when for each of the stores we carry two infernos MSR, Alex only wants one, he prefers that in the other store, where there are four people, they are hot and can drink more. This guy is not normal, he always thinks about others and we have to follow him to force him to eat and drink too. First the others and he always the last one. We must recognize that this has never happened to us and if we are here it is because of Alex, because first of all he believes in us and we trust on him.

The night was very hard, and for Alex I can’t tell ... do you know what bag he slept with? With one that appeared on the bus where we came from Nepal, a sack with which I would go cold in summer on a simple base camp night, and he did not say anything ... well yes, he stuck a lot to me!! Heh, heh, heh. The night was very cold, at least minus 40 degrees below zero. And yet, since there was no wind, Alex likes to sleep with both doors open, almost completely. He says that in the morning, if not, there is a lot of frost. I tell him, "That's why you should sleep outside, it's all the same sleeping outside than inside" heh, heh, heh. But the thing does not end there. The next morning, he is the first to get up again. Prepares water for the two stores and we talk, He always has some good ideas. We reached the C2 between five, carrying a lot of weight. Between the C1 and C2 is more vertical already, and you have to be more careful. There are only about 3 lines of strings, and all of them old. One of those lines was set by Walum and I, Nuri, when we were here, we recognize it perfectly. We could not fix and climb higher, but it is Alex who says that the strings are broken and that we are going to be smart, that it would be good for us to go up fast doing things wrong. Tells us what accidents occur by using old cords.

We reach C2 and from there direct to the base camp. We go down very very fast. In the advance base camp You have to pass another small waterfall of ice, not like the Khumbu, much smaller. Alex again come with that, as there are almost no cracks and the Russian team has marked so well the waterfall and have even equipped some area, let's see if we go without crampons, so we go faster and safer. We look at each other, and by the time we notice it, Alex pulls himself down and says "follow me!" . In the end, once again, he is right and in less than an hour we reach the base. When we get to the glacier and at night, we stop for one of our vices (heh, heh, heh, I do not say it, we are athletes) but once again Alex starts screaming, Puta madre! Puta madre! , what do we do under the serac of the Cesen, that there sometimestimes breaks and the avalanche reaches the Broad Peak.

This has been our first out in K2, and as you can see, we are very happy and we can not feel more secure or more loved. We are paid 3 times more in Everest than Alex gives us. But the first time he told us that if something happened to any of us, he would take care of our families, and that nobody does. For that, and for much more, we are here! I wish we are lucky and reach the summit. Of course, we do not sleep in igloo, we are afraid to sleep in there, to see if it will fall ... heh, heh, heh. Although Alex always tells us it's better. The truth is that when we started to move snow without knowing what they wanted to do, the rest of the team knew that it was impossible to do anything with that snow and even less a house. But today we have to say that they are still standing and it seems that they will be there until the summer. Now we begin to think that they are right, because inside the snow house there is nothing cold".

We, Sherpas Nuri, Walung, Pasang, Cheppal and Gelsem, greet you.
Danebat !!!.