• 2
    , by Alex

Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC)

Indeed, as Tamara Lunger published on her Facebook account some days ago, the team leaded by Simone Moro has joined Alex Txikon and Ali ‘Sadpara’ in the Kinshofer route.

The two italians have decided to close their attempt in the Messner-Eisendle route due to its bad conditions –“the serac about to collapse and crevasses opening more and more”–. Lunger recognised as well that they know “the biggest part of the job is already done”, and that they didn’t feel good because they didn´t participate in this job. Nevertheless, the motivation they share has made the agreement possible.

From now on, they’ll join forces in the same direction, and today they’ve given the first step: although wind was very strong in higher camps, it gave them a chance below 5.500m, and so the four climbers were able to reopen the track up to their C1 (4.800m) and advance further up to 5.100m.

Txikon and ‘Sadpara’ have found the terrain completely changed from the last time they came down from C2, on 24th of January: big ice pieces have fallen down from the seracs above the route, and have also noticed that some of the crevasses on the way are wider now than before. Wind has moved a lot of snow these days and it’s been accumulated on the first slops to the other side of the glacier. That’s why they’ve walked and climbed carefully, always ready for possible snow falls.

After refixing the tent, Moro and Lunger have deposited in this C1 some personal equipment they’ll need for climbing to higher camps, and also a tent for four people that they’ll set in C3 (6.700m), where Txikon and ‘Sadpara’ had already deposited ropes, climbing material, food and gas. But will need to wait for some days so that they retake the work, because weather forecasts are not very possitive.

On the other hand, should clarify something that is being pretty evident: cooperation between Alex Txikon and italian Daniele Nardi has come impossible due to overt and constant disagreements on the way they face this expedition –different work rithms or priorities, different points of view or interpretations of some events, and disagreements as well refering to behaviour in Base Camp–..