Road to Himalayas 2019-2020 Expedition: Antarctica - Ama Dablam - Everest
Alex Txikon returns to winter Everest.
After trying K2 earlier this year, Alex Txikon prepares to face Everest again in winter, which he already launched tentative paths in 2016-17 and 2017-18. "The third time is the charm," Alex said about his next assault on the highest mountain on the planet, with 8,848m, in the most extreme conditions. “We will also take advantage of the experience of K2, where we learned a lot.”
This time, Everest will be the culmination of a triple adventure that will begin on December 14, 2019, when Txikon, accompanied by Juanra Madariaga, embarks on an expedition that will sail the South Shetland Islands on the Antarctic Peninsula. To do this, starting from Punta Arenas, in Chile, they will have to cross the dangerous passage of Drake and go out to the open sea until they reach the islands. Once there and taking the boat as a base, the expeditionaries will explore the islands, very mountainous, and will make a series of approaches on foot and with skis to unscaled peaks or where they can open new routes.
In early January, and with just two days off, Txikon will fly to Nepal. There he will meet with Félix Criado and Íñigo Gutiérrez Arce who, meanwhile, will have traveled the entire route from Spain to Kathmandu on a 13,000km journey through 12 countries, carrying out various humanitarian actions at some points along the way. Once all have gathered, they will walk from Lukla to the Ama Dablam Base Camp, considered one of the most beautiful mountains on earth and a challenge in winter. In this section they will also be accompanied by a group of disabled mountaineers of the association AMIAB (National Associative Entity of Social Economy declared of Public Utility with headquarters in Albacete, which joins this project with a clear objective: to visualize full inclusion). Txikon will lead a team of nine people on the climb to Ama Dablam, which, in addition to its intrinsic value, will serve as physical and mental preparation and acclimatization for Everest, whose base camp is also relatively close, at the head of the valley of the Khumbu. This will facilitate the logistics and rapidity of team movements. For Everest, Alex will join forces with Oscar Cardo and Jonatan García, as well as with the Nepalese Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa and Tenjen Sherpa. All of them are expert ochomilists. Oscar Cardo, a firefighter resident in Albacete, has to his credit the summits of Everest and Cho Oyu, while Joanatan García, from Barakaldo, has reached the tops of Annapurna and Manaslu. In addition, they will have the help of the appreciated “ice doctors”, Sherpas specialized in finding and equipping with aluminum ropes and scales one of the most dangerous areas of Everest: the Khumbu ice waterfall. It is a maze of cracks and seracs (giant blocks of glacier ice) in slow but constant movement, and it is necessary to cross to reach Field 1, the first of the four high fields that are installed in Everest along the route chosen, that of Collado Sur.
In addition to climbing, the expedition will conduct topographic and meteorological studies using powerful drones, while photographer Diego Martínez, an analog photography specialist, will document the expedition for future exhibitions and the publication of a book..
Antártida – Ama Dablam - Everest