Born in Lemoa (Bizkaia, Basque Country), on 12th of December 1981, Alex Txikon is the youngest of 13 brothers and sisters. When he was no more than 3 years old, his brother Javi, the one who taught him to love mountaineering, took Alex to the top of Gorbea mountain, one of the most emblematic peaks in Basque Country. He joined Ganzabal Mountain Club at teenage and could try himslelf in Pyrenees, Picos de Europa and Alps for the first time. In his 17 travelled to Pamir Mountains and he was just 21 when reached the summit of his first +8.000m mountain: Broad Peak (8.051m) in Pakistan.
Alex Txikon’s taken part in more than 30 expeditions so far, has climed up to the summit of 10 of the 14 highest mountains and, chiefly, has lived the most incredible experiences in wonderfull places all over the world and with the most amazing people he could never had imagined.
The first important step in his career came in 2005 when joining ‘Al Filo De Lo Imposible’ spanish TV programme, working as a high altitude cameraman also for Edurne Pasaban’s ‘14×8.000’ project.
But, in 2011, although having recieved the invitation from Pasaban’s team for Everest, Alex Txikon felt having completed a stage and needed to start a new one looking for different ways of practicing mountaineering. That’s how he began to lead winter expeditions for which he is specially wellknown nowadays. These last years he has opted for projects that probably are less successfull but much more valuables in terms of technicality, difficulty and commitment. North faces, new routes, alpine style, big walls… it’s a risky but immensely satisfying choice.
As well as alpinism, Alex Txikon practices rock climbing, BASE jumping and basque rural sport such as wood cutting; he’s an insatiable adventureman, loves exploring, travelling and meeting new friends, something which must be part of any project or goal that he faces.
Alex’s first summit when he was 3 years old, with his brother Javi. Gorbeia (1.482m).
Further contact with mountaineering inside Ganzabal Mountain Club. Pyrenees and Picos de Europa.
First tryp to Alps, climbing first difficult routes above 4.000 metres.
From then on, Alex started his career as a high level climber.
Comunism (7.495m) and Korzeneskaya (7.134m).
Broad Peak (8.047m). SUMMIT.
Makalu (8.463 m). SUMMIT.
K2 (8.611m), Cessen route. Up to 7.400m.
Cho Oyu (8.201 m). SUMMIT.
Makalu (8.643m). West Pilar. Up to 7.650m.
Lenin (7.134 m). SUMMIT.
Expedition to Antarctica:
Scott (880m). SUMMIT.
Shackelton (1.465m). New route. SUMMIT.
Wandell unclimbed peak (2.397m). SUMMIT.
Sisha Pangma (8.031m). SouthWest British Route. Alpine style up to 7.800m.
Sisha Pangma (8.031 m). SouthWest British Route. SUMMIT.
Alex Txikon joins Edurne Pasaban’s ‘14×8.000’ project.
Daulaghiri (8.167m). SUMMIT.
Manaslu (8.163 m). SUMMIT.
Kangchenjunga (8.586m). Up to 8.450m.
Sisha Pangma (8.027m). SUMMIT.
Annapurna (8.091m). SUMMIT.
Shisha Pangma (8.031m). NorthWest Route. SUMMIT.
After Edurne Pasaban finishing her project, Alex Txikon starts a new stage on his own looking for new ways of practicing alpinism.
Gasherbrum I (8080 m). First winter attempt. New Route up to 7.000m.
The film from that expedition, ‘Next time Insallah’, was awarded Best Film that year in Sestriere Film Festival.
Gasherbrum I (8080 m). SUMMIT.
Gasherbrum II (8035 m). SUMMIT. (Both in 6 days)
The film from that expedition, ‘Aizkora hotsak goi mendietan’, was awarded Best Basque Film that year in Mendifilm Festival (Bilbao).
K2 (8.611m). Abruzzi Route, up to 7.900m.
Gasherbrum I (8080 m). Winter expedition. New Route up to 7.400m.
His three expedition mates disappeared at 7.700m.
Summer expedition to Greenland. Ulamertosuaq (1.880m), SUMMIT.
The film from this expedition, ‘Next stop: Greenland’ won many awards:
- BCN Sports 2013. Best adventure sporst film.
- International Air Film Festival 2013. Best film.
- Moscow International Vertical Festival 2013. Best adventure film.
- Sestriere Film Festival 2013. Best film.
- Coupe Icare 2013. Best adventure film.
- Terre Alte… Emozioni dal Mondo 2013. Best film.
- Sport Movies & Tv 2013 – 31st Milano International FICTS. Honorific mention.
- Lizarra Xtreme 2013. Audience Award.
Laila Peak (6.200m). First winter attempt and SUMMIT.
Nuptse (7.861 m). Turned around 20 metres below summit, due to bad conditions in the top ridge.
Lhotse (8.516 m). SUMMIT.
K2 (8.611m), Abruzzi Route. Up to 7.100m.
Kangchenjunga (8.586m). North Face British Route. Up to 8.500m.
Nameless Tower (6.251m). ‘Ethernal Flame’ 7b+, A2, M5 1100m. In 36 hours.
Nanga Parbat (8.125m). Winter Expedition. Kinshoffer Route. Up to 7.850m.
Thalay Sagar (6.904m). New Route withous summit in the NorthWest Pillar: ‘Askatasun Taupadak’ 700m + 520m M5/6, A3, WI4+.
Nanga Parbat (8.126m). SUMMIT. First winter ascent. Kinshofer route.