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    AX | Assessment of the Everest winter expedition (8848 m)

    Now that it has been a month since we returned from the Everest winter expedition without the use of artificial oxygen, I am in a position to make an assessment. Without a doubt, it has been one of the toughest challenges I have faced, and not only because of the most extreme conditions, but because

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    REPORT |Attacking the summit GO, GO!

    After arriving at Camp 2 (6400 m), we stayed one day there acclimatizing and getting ready. It has been a tough night in Camp 2 with minimum temperatures of -35 degrees and a freezing wind. Luckily, we have been able to move forward and we are already at Camp 3 (7100 m). The weather forecast

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    REPORT | Difficult days equipping up to 7850m!

    Hard days and nights at height. Although we have been very close to reaching the Camp 4, we have given the work for finished. The weather started to change and one of our mates wasn’t feeling very well. However, we are very happy for the work done in extreme conditions, equipping up to 7850 meters,

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    REPORT | Top in Pumori mountain (7161m)

    We have conquered the Pumori mountain! “The Daughter of the Mountain”, known as one of the most beautiful mountains of the world. After ascending until the C2 of Everest we have made a standby to ascend this beautiful mountain and check our conditions for the Everest. The team is formed by Ali Sadpara, Nuri, Temba

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    REPORT | We have reached Camp 2 at 6500 m!

    Yesterday we left from the Base Camp to Camp 1, where we had a really cold night and barely sleep due to strong wind. This morning we headed to the second camp and we arrived there in just one day. Great achievement since last year it took us two days to reach this point. In

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    REPORT | Experience in trekking + arrival at the Base Camp

    We are already in Everest Base Camp. This year we have arrived two days earlier than last year. To get here we have gone through the famous Base Camp Trekking, which we have finished in 8 days. We have lived incredible moments since the sun has us every day, except for one. Therefore, we have

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    REPORT | Heading to Mount Everest

    It’s time to fly to Nepal and leave Bizkaia behind. The adventure begins. One more year we go into the hidden places of Everest, the highest mountain in the world, in winter and without artificial oxygen. But the truth is that what leaves me without oxygen is all those people who came to see us

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    TRAILER | “Everest, a superhuman challenge”

    Here you have a preview of the film that summarizes the hardest expedition of my life and one of the biggest challenges in the world of mountaineering: try to ascend Everest in pure winter and without the use of artificial oxygen. Premiere dates: – Thursday, November 9th | 7:30 pm | Euskalduna Palace, Bilbao -

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    REPORT | See you later, Everest!

    This isn’t a goodbye, it’s a “see you later”. Everest hasn’t wanted this year to conquire its heart, but what I do appreciate clearly is that it has stolen my heart. I dream, every day, since we left our home on December 25 that we reach the 8848 meters that separate us from the sky,

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    AX | Life gives you surprises!

    In that moment of happiness in which I thought that the greatest experience of my life couldn’t be overcome, Reinhold Messner my greatest idol and inspiration, comes to the Base Camp, to support me in my challenge of trying to ascend Everest in winter and without bottled oxygen. “The god of the mountains” was the

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    VIDEO | Hard days refitting the Khumbu Icefall

    We have renewed 60% of the previous equipment affected by the hard weather conditions of the last weeks. It has been a laborious work in which we have retrofitted the complicated Khumbu Icefall located in the route between the Base Camp and the First Altitude Camp. Besides, I show you our previous days in a

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    CRÓNICA | We’re back from the Base Camp!

    Yesterday, on the 25th, we went up by helicopter to the Base Camp. In one hour we went from being at 1000 meters, compared to 5,250 meters of the Base Camp. The truth was that I was afraid: I thought that I could be affected by altitude sickness, due to the change of being in


    AX | Solidarity Project in Nepal

    And then they say that dreams do not come true … Ha ha! A few days away in the direction of what is my second home, Nepal, Alex calls me on the phone and says “Enara, I have a surprise for you ..” This simple phrase was the beginning of what has been a great adventure.

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    REPORT | Gossiping at almost 8000 meters

    They give us good part of meteo for the 14, we go for it. We left on the 10th, not too early, Norbu, Chhepal and me. No major problems than solving the icefall. We reach the 2C, 6.350 mt. In about 8 hours. Between Norbu and I we rode the 2C again; Chhepal arrives somewhat


    REPORT | Balance is useless When you have fallen for a long time

    We start from the base camp on Thursday, February 2, not very early as ascending to the C2 (6350 m), has become a mere process (although very dangerous). We enter into the waterfall of the Khumbu that makes waters on all sides; Dangerous sections increase. I thought it would be safer in winter, but every

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    REPORT | When the sun falls, life dies

    If we really want to go up there, we have to act when life dies. It is then, when we must be the good team that we are and only then will we know if we are sufficiently prepared and if we will measure up, will we be able to overcome our fears? 7.30 in

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    REPORT | I’m not a superhero

    After two days rest in the base camp, there are changes in the starting grid. Even assimilating what has been lived up there, it is too early to draw conclusions and still less to make decisions. There should be no rush; we have just started; we need to keep a cool head and try to

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    REPORT | 6 exhausting days ending in a terrifying arrival 

    After 6 days away from home (CB), it is time to reflect. The accumulated fatigue and extreme situations have taken a toll on me and make my rest difficult. Therefore, at this time of the morning, I wanted to take everything I have inside and make you participate in what has been lived during these


    VIDEO | Recovered from the scare; we continue forward

    From the C3 of Everest I send all my strength to Carlos Rubio great companion and friend who has had to be evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu because of a lung inflammatory process. He is stable and I know he is fine, but from here we miss him a lot, since he has worked

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    VIDEO | Working hard between the Second and Third Altitude Camp (7000 m)

    We are working hard and today we will spend the night around 7000 m. Yesterday we reached the Second Field of Height to start equipping as much as possible until the end of the week. Do you want to know what it feels like to have to go through the complicated “Death Runner” again? Here

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    REPORT | We are already at the First Altitude Camp (6050m)!

    After four stages of work equipping The Khumbu icefall yesterday that the wind gave us a window of good conditions, we ascended and spent the night at 5870 meters, in a provisional field, but as it is not the best place, today we have climbed to 6050 meters to build the C1. At the moment,

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    VIDEO | The Khumbu Icefall, Everest

    We continue to work hard on the Khumbu icefall. At the moment, we have carried four stairs carrying more than 30 kg each. There are very dangerous sections and we have to be very careful. Enjoy these beautiful images that perfectly reflect the labyrinth of ice chaos. Enjoy it! Here you have a beautiful montage

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    REPORT | We are ekipping the Khumbu Icefall

    We spent two days equipping the Khumbu Icefall – between Base Camp and Camp 1-. Honestly, it’s what I’m afraid of climbing Everest, I do not want us to get stuck and we’re equipping it for a month. We are working hard, we have to climb a lot of stairs. In short, we have to

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    REPORT | First days at the Base Camp (5.250 m)

    The Base Camp (5,250 m). Our house for the next few weeks. It is a real luxury to be the only expedition in the CB; Since during the year, it is usually overcrowded. But, fortunately, in winter, we are the only inhabitants under the highest summit in the world.   January 5, first day at

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    VIDEO | Happy new year!

    Happy new year to you all, I send you all my strength from Everest, Nepal. I hope you have a year full of dreams and good times. Let’s leave behind all the problems and live this 2017 with energy and positivity. I wish you all the best in this new adventure. I will take you with

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    NEPAL | December 27-31

    Here you have the summary of these last days: December 27: The Everest from the air Bouddhanath Temple, Kathmandu December 29: Kathmandu-Namche Bazaar (3.404 m)   December 30: Khunde, Khumbu (3.900 m) December 31: (During the day) (At night, at the last dinner of the year) We say goodbye to this 2016 with this great

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    LOIU-KATHMANDU | The adventure has already begun!

    The adventure has begun; we are already in Kathmandu. We had a hard time getting here, winter expeditions are very hard and require an excess effort, but this is our dream and we will give everything to take advantage of this opportunity that our sponsors have given us, without them this would not be possible,

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    Happy to chain the ‘EL RUIDO Y LA FURIA’ 7c+/8a before going to the Everest

    It’s been three or four days since I chained ‘El Ruido y La Furia’ 7c+/8a in Araotz, Oñati, Gipuzkoa. One of the great achievements of my sport career being as it comes at a difficult time in my life: in the last few weeks I have been busier than ever, I have given a couple of

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    NEXT STOP | EVEREST in winter without bottled oxygen

    My new adventure it is undoubtedly the most extreme challenge of my career. Even the most ambitious challenge in the world of mountaineering. Human being has been conquering little by little every the most terminal points on earth: the poles, deserts, the 14 mountains of 8,000-meter-peak. One of the major challenges today in the world of adventure,

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    26/02/2016: First Nanga Parbat winter ascent

    The 26th February of 2016 is already part of the alpinism history. At 15:37 (in Pakistan), Alex Txikon, Ali ‘Sadpara’ and Simone Moro reached the top of Nanga Parbat (8.126m). The ‘killer mountain’ was at last conquered in winter.     After 24 hours they were back in BC, together with Tamara Lunger, who was

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    Already in C4 (7.200m), will set out for the summit at 5:30–6:00am

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 25/02/2016 At 18:30 (in Pakistan) Alex Txikon has just contacted this BC for informing they’re already resting and hidrating inside their sleeping bags in C4 (7.200m). Optimum wind conditions are expected for 26th night and will remain throughout 27th, but waiting until then would suppose to spend one ‘extra’

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    It was not possible, will try again tomorrow

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 15/02/2016 They couldn’t make it. A new meteo change, one of those we are so afraid of, brought clouds and strong wind that forced four climbers to descend from C1. Nanga reminds us this is winter. Tomorrow they’ll try again. It was about 2:00pm when yesterday they reached C1


    Txikon, ‘Sadpara’, Moro and Lunger delay at least to early February 7 the rotation they had programmed to start today

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 05/02/2016 It seems that the short window will reach a few hours later. They are being fairly nice days here in Base Camp (some sunnier than others, so does the temperature), but every day we hear and observe frustrated that the wind blows very hard up there, aborting any

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    Wind gives a short letup that Txikon, ‘Sadpara’, Moro and Lunger use for reopening the track up to 5.100m in the Kinshofer

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 05/02/2016 Indeed, as Tamara Lunger published on her Facebook account some days ago, the team leaded by Simone Moro has joined Alex Txikon and Ali ‘Sadpara’ in the Kinshofer route. The two italians have decided to close their attempt in the Messner-Eisendle route due to its bad conditions –“the

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    Little accident without consequences that serves as a lesson for all of us

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 29/01/2016 This morning Alex Txikon and Ali ‘Sadpara’ set off from Base Camp for opening the track one more time, because hard wind has moved snow these days, covering the way. They had on mind to reach no further than C1 (4.800m), because meteo conditions do not give chance


    Txikon and ‘Sadpara’ mark the glacier in case next days snow covers the track

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 26/01/2016 Bleak weather today in this Diamir valley. However, shouldn’t accommodate too much in Base Camp, and that’s why Alex Txikon and Ali ‘Sadpara’ have spent the morning marking with bamboos the traverse that goes from Base Camp to the morraine (where large accumulations of snow are very usual)

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    Txikon, ‘Sadpara’ and Nardi have their route ready for summit push, just need to wait for a good window

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 25/01/2016 Twelve days of hard work in mountain, three nights in C1 (4.800m), other four nights on the small and unconfortable platform in C2 (6.100m) and more than 2.500 meters of rope (almos 200 kilos) carried up and fixed along the route, up to its C3 (6.700m). Twenty five

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    Txikon, ‘Sadpara’ and Nardi have stablished a deposit in C3 (6.700m) and are back in C2 (6.100m) for the night

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 23/01/2016 The team leaded by Alex Txikon has achieved an important goal: They’ve equipped the route up to C3 (6.700m). They’ve rejected the idea of spending the night at that altitude, though. According to the last meteo forecasts, hard winds (160km/h) are coming in less than 24 hours, and

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    Txikon, ‘Sadpara’ and Nardi in C2 (6.100m), with enough ropes for keeping on equipping

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 22/01/2016 Txikon, ‘Sadpara’ and Nardi have started a new rotation today morning. Let’s see what they can do over this new window. It’s been a long, hard but eficient day: The three climbers got up at 3:00am (11:00pm at home), had breakfast at 3:30am and at 4:00am set off

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    Txikon and ‘Sadpara’ have fixed 500 meters of rope up to 6.500m and are back in C2 (6.100m) for sleeping

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 17/01/2016 At 8am we received in BC the first call from the two climbers: “The night’s been freezing, –30ºC, but we are ready to start”. Indeed, with binoculars we were able to notice how they left C2 and advanced along the first snow ridge. At 4pm they contacted again

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    Txikon and ‘Sadpara’ reach the base of the Kinshofer Wall

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 13/01/2016 Brilliant work and qualitatively very important step made today by Txikon and ‘Sadpara’: have managed to equip the route up to the base of the rocky Kinshofer Wall (6.050m aprox.), and deposit there one tent, food and material. It was 7:30am when set off from C1 (4.800m) under

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    Fixed up to 5.700m, and almost 3.000 meters of rope portered. Polish Bielecki & Czech join the international team leaded by Alex Txikon; from now on they will all work together on the Kinshofer route for this Nanga Parbat (8.126m) winter attempt.

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 11th January, 2016 Line ready up to 5.700m, and 700 meters of rope deposited at this same altitude; one lower deposit with 1.000 meters of rope at 5.300m; and 600 meters more of rope in C1 (4.800m), plus some other material and food. That’s how it is going after

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    After hours of doubts and discussion, tomorrow will finally return to work for C2 (6.100m) in Kinshofer Route

    8th January, 2016.Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) After hours of doubts and discussion, the team leaded by Alex Txikon has finally decided to hold the initial plan and attempt Nanga Parbat from its normal route, Kinshofer route. From tomorrow on, four days of good weather are coming, and so they’ll work and climb for

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    First portering day up to C1 (4.850m): 70 kilograms of material deposited

    Text: Igone Mariezkurrena (Nanga Parbat BC) 2nd January, 2016 Today was the first working day for Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi and Ali ‘Sadpara’ in Nanga Parbat, and it’s been really satisfactory. Two days after reaching and establishing BC (4.200m), the three climbers have reached which is going to be their first altitude camp (C1, 4.850m)

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    Back in the Argentinean Andes

    After long days of journey, at last we could reach ‘The Cerro’ that we met in July for the first time. We are in Catamarca northern area, almost in the border to Chile. Believe me this is really the Paradise for those who love mountaineering, the view is completely wild, masive, and five of the


    The beginning of a new cycle with Trangoworld

    Tomorrow, 2nd December, I will present the inminent ‘Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 2016’ for medias and, by the way, will announce I’ve just joined Trangoworld team with great enthusiasm and desire to work. Trangoworld brand will support me from now on: for this great winter challenge at Nanga Parbat I completelly trust Trangoworld’s TRX2 textil

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    Full satisfaction after achieving ‘Sonata de cuchillo y metralleta’ (7c)

    Since my toes got frozen during that fatidic GI (8.080m) 2012 Winter Expedition, even putting on my climbing shoes’s become a real torture, and that’s distanced me from rock climbing for a long time. To long. That’s why having achieved ‘Sonata’ (7c) in Korea (Araotz) is for me a kind of culmination of my overcoming

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    Will go for Nanga Parbat in winter

    Just a few lines to update you about my aim for this winter: want to try again in Nanga Parbat (8.126m) and improve the job done there last year. As well as Ali ‘Sadpara’ (Pakistan) and Daniele Nardi (Italy), both of them partners last year, Janusz Golab (Poland) and Ferran Latorre (Catalunya) will climb together

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    Without summit, but with a new route

    El equipo formado por Txus Lizarraga, Adrian Legarra, Ekaitz Maiz, Felix Criado, Daniele Nardi y Alex Txikon ha dado por finalizada la expedición ‘Thalay Sagar 2015’. Dado que no han hecho cumbre, tampoco dan por cumplido su objetivo, pero se muestran satisfechos con el trabajo realizado: una nueva vía en el Pilar Noroeste, a la

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    In the base of the wall

    Despite progressing slower than expected, the team led by Alex Txikon has at last come to the base of the imposing 300-metre rock pillar that guards the northwestern edge of Thalay Sagar (6.904m). Up to this point, they have followed the route opened in this same pillar by the team led by the german Stephan

Last news

AX | Assessment of the Everest winter expedition (8848 m)
Now that it has been a month since we returned from the Everest winter expedition without the use of artificial oxygen, I am in a position to make an assessment. Without a doubt, it has been one of the toughest challenges I have faced, and not only because of the most extreme conditions, but because
REPORT |Attacking the summit GO, GO!
After arriving at Camp 2 (6400 m), we stayed one day there acclimatizing and getting ready. It has been a tough night in Camp 2 with minimum temperatures of -35 degrees and a freezing wind. Luckily, we have been able to move forward and we are already at Camp 3 (7100 m). The weather forecast